In June 2023, I traveled from Peru to Bolivia. I took a night bus from Arequipa to the Bolivianborder, and from there I planned to take another bus to La Paz. The adventure began with my arrival at the border.
To cross, I had to pass by border guards and police, enter the official office on the Peruvian side, answer questions posed by the border official (preferably in Spanish), get my stamp, and leave. My Spanish and his English were comical, but somehow we understood each other. After getting my stamp, I asked him how to reach the bus for La Paz. He explained as best as he could and directed me where to go. I followed his directions and along the way, I activated a Bolivian SIM card. I confirmed the bus directions with a kind lady at a kiosk. After deciding on a bus, where I was least pulled by the arm and where there were the most women, I headed towards La Paz.
I spent the next 5 hours in the last seat of a 10-seat bus with 2 Bolivian women who offered me corn and coca leaves for chewing, while I offered them my nuts. Coca leaves help with high altitude; they regulate blood pressure and facilitate easier breathing. After we exchanged our foods, they took out wool and needles and knitted socks and a small sweater by the time we reached La Paz. Since I had to change two more collectivo buses in La Paz with very little Spanish knowledge, an Argentine noticed my “resourcefulness” and decided to go with me to my future hostel.
In such situations, I do the Check in with myself and I really rely on my instinct and feeling in the moment. The Argentine seemed kind and of pure intentions. We got along well. Since I had spent a month and a half in Colombia and Peru before coming to Bolivia, lets say I managed well with the Spanish language. Along the way, I bought us street food which we sat down to eat in a park. After filling our bellies and catching our breath (the altitude is no joke), we said goodbye near the hostel and each went our way. La Paz is at an altitude of 3,600m and it is the highest national capital in the world. Chewing coca leaves helps and it is important to stay hydrated. At hostel check-in, I handed over my passport and they asked me where the stamp was. I showed them the stamp the man at the border gave me. The guy asked again for the stamp, but the one received upon entering Bolivia! I recalled the whole situation… I DIDN’T GET THE STAMP WHEN ENTERING BOLIVIA!
I stood in shock and didn’t know what to say, convinced I had done all the steps right. I replayed the film in my mind and tried to explain to myself HOW I managed to not take the stamp? I followed the instructions to the bus and literally walked past the police. Yes, something like this can happen to me. And now what? Naturally, I started begging for a night at the hostel. The guy at the reception went to make a call with the director while the receptionist looked at me decisively and unyieldingly. Quite intimidating. It was 11 pm and I was in one of the most dangerous cities in the world. I definitely needed a roof over my head! Until then, I had traveled 12 hours by night bus to the city of Puno, then another 5 hours to border. From there to La Paz, the journey lasted 5 hours plus an additional 2 hours of collectivo buses in La Paz with 1 hour of walking to the hostel. Due to the altitude, I couldn’t sleep so I had been actively awake for more than 1 whole day. In La Paz, I was just waiting for a shower and bed. The guy at the reception came back and told me that I was allowed to stay with them and that at 7 am I had to go to the immigration office in the center of La Paz and they would guide me through the further process. He said I shouldn’t say where I was staying and that I would definitely have to pay a fine and in certain situations, it could lead to jail.
Not very pleasant news in the late hours. In my mind, I was still thinking about the shower and bed, and the rest we’ll see tomorrow. The next morning I woke up at noon! The fatigue was indescribable and I didn’t hear the alarms or the people in the room. I quickly got ready, rushed past the reception, and looked for my way to the immigration office. Thank God the road went downhill. At the entrance, a guard stopped me. Entry was not allowed without a face mask. My mask was in my backpack at the hostel. Ughhh Dajana. My head was still on my shoulders, but panic started to set in because I had less and less time until the office closed. A little further down the street, I came across a woman selling various things, including masks. I noticed them exactly between local newspapers and Palo Santo. I paid 7 Bolivianos for the mask and ran back to the office. I got a number for counter number 1 out of 14. It was crowded and all counters were working, except the one I needed. Counter number one was locked with a chain until 2:40 pm.
I nervously walked in circles, asked at the info desk for another counter, and explained how I urgently needed to resolve my situation today. I didn’t achieve much with that. I decided it was probably a good idea to inform my parents. I called my dad and explained the situation in case I was unavailable for some time. At that moment, I was calming him down while my thoughts raced, and my stomach churned. I must say that conscious breathing and grounding practices have helped a lot to calm down my nervous system!
At 2:45 they finally opened the counter and called me. The gentleman spoke only Spanish and we half understood each other. This was one of those life situations where we really needed to understand each other well for everything to end well. He handed me a phone under a plastic barrier to explain in a WhatsApp group via voice message in Spanish why I didn’t have the stamp and what exactly happened. Of course, it was unsuccessful. Then he gave me a half-filled form and indicated the sector where I needed to explain the situation in writing in Spanish. I explained the situation in English. He took my fingerprints and took my picture. Along the way, he explained that I would get a fine and that for such offenses a person goes to jail.
At that moment, I found myself illegally in a foreign country, on another continent, alone, only with a card and no cash, understanding every other word of Spanish. This was a moment for humility and begging. This emphasized the importance of having detailed information about the laws of the countries we travel to. This was the moment when I told myself: “When I survive this, I will talk about it and, one day, hopefully laugh at it.”
They sent me to counter number 12 and the procedure was the same. The last step was payment. I swiped my card and paid a fine of 286 Bolivianos. At 3 o’clock, I got a confirmation with a stamp that I was legally in the country. On the yellow envelope, my name, surname, and three exclamation marks were written in big, bold letters and underlined. Next to it stood HARD CRIME!
What a rush of emotions. I took myself out for lunch.
This was an adventure that taught me multitude of insights. What an opportunity for self-discovery, independence, and personal growth. Here are a few insights I gained while traveling solo:
1. Self-reliance: Solo travel empowers me to rely on myself for decision-making, problem-solving, and navigating unfamiliar situations, which is increasing my self-confidence.
2. Cultural immersion: Without the distraction of companions, when I am traveling solo I often find myself more open to interacting with locals and immersing myself in the culture of the places I visit.
3. Adaptability: Managing language challenges, unexpected changes in plans, and unfamiliar traditions helps my adaptability and flexibility.
4. Reflection: When I am exploring on my own, it provides time for introspection and reflection, allowing me to gain clarity on personal goals, values, and priorities.
5. Empathy: What I find valuable is that experiencing different cultures and perspectives firsthand cultivate empathy and a deeper understanding of global issues.
6. Strengthened problem-solving skills: Dealing with unexpected challenges, like in this story, is sharpening problem-solving skills and encouraging creativity in finding solutions.
7. Increased self-awareness: Spending time alone in new environments helps me to better understand my own strengths, weaknesses, and preferences.
8. Freedom and spontaneity: Traveling solo allows me the freedom to follow my own interests and impulses without having to compromise with travel buddies.
Solo travel can be a transformative experience that provides valuable insights into ourselves and the world.
From which adventure did you realize you are the main character of your own life?
Do you have an experience of traveling solo?
